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Dan's Papers review by Roy Bradbrook
In a culinary world where longevity is not
the norm, Jerry Dicecco's quaintly named restaurant, just a
block east of the Aquarium, must be doing something right,
because it is now fifteen years since he first opened and today
it is going stronger than ever. Even more unusual in this day
and age, his son Jerry Jr., has followed in his father's
footsteps, despite all his attempts to dissuade him. Jerry Jr.,
graduated from Johnson and Wales Culinary Institute with high
grades, spent six months in Italy cooking, and then had a spell
at the prestigious DB Bistro of Daniel Boulud in Manhattan
before joining his father and taking over as Executive Chef, as
Jerry Senior looks to spend a little more time in relaxation.
You can sit indoors or on the porch and there
is an enclosed deck that looks over the pool and marina of the
adjacent marina, which provides a steady stream of customers in
the season. The restaurant also has a core of regular local
customers who enjoy their meals here year round. The menu is
seafood based, but they also make sure that non fish lovers are
well cared for. Jerry Jr., has just introduced a new menu that
still includes the dishes that have become very popular, but now
also includes a number of new offerings.
We left ourselves in the two Jerry's hands
and started with one of the new appetizers, a chilled ahi tuna
spring roll. The roll was very interesting with the differing
textures and tastes of very fresh tuna that was wrapped with
some vermicelli and served with a tangy dipping sauce that
complemented but did not swamp the tuna. This was a very good
start and we realized only when Jerry told us that what we had
enjoyed actually was a half portion. You do not go away hungry
here! The classic mozzarella and tomato was everything it should
be with good cheese and ripe tasty tomatoes. Next came a
selection of the hot appetizers. Incidentally, when I first read
the menu my thoughts were that I could really have a great meal
just based on the appetizers.
We loved the buffalo wings, they were crisp,
non-greasy had a nice amount of meat on them and the sauce was
exactly hot enough. It was easy to understand how these have
become one of their signature dishes over the years and Jerry
was loath to tell us all of his secrets in the ingredients - but
they really were very good and I am not known as a buffalo wings
enthusiast. Coconut shrimp were crispy and well cooked. Then
came some delicate and very tender calamari, cooked with yellow
peppers that gave the dish an unusual touch of acidity and a
slight heat that made this one of the very best renditions of
calamari we have ever enjoyed. Oysters Rockefeller is a classic
dish that was perfectly executed. Steamers are a specialty here,
when available, and we were fortunate for some had just been
delivered, Jerry sources these from the North Shore because he
believes they have the best taste, and we could only agree as we
devoured them after immersing them in a gorgeously fragrant
broth of white, wine, garlic and herbs.
Moving on to the main courses, Jerry Jr.
selected the pignoli-crusted grouper for us and we totally
enjoyed a perfectly cooked piece of fish where the liberally
applied pignoli infused a very special taste to the fish. The
meat dish was much more robust. Now I was not familiar with the
term 'flat iron' steak but now thanks to Google I know much
more! The result of skilled butchering and subtle marinating was
an extremely tender, very tasty piece of meat. Very often
accompanying vegetables seem, in many restaurants, just to be an
afterthought or a plate filler. This was not the case here,
because the mélange of julienne peppers and excellent green
beans plus a baked potato fully matched the quality of the meat.
The iconic dessert here is a large ice cream
crepe with homemade hot fudge and whipped cream, which we just
about had enough room left to taste and to understand its
popularity. Finally, a very palate cleansing kiwi and strawberry
sorbet with a cup of intense deep espresso and a drop of Jerry
Jr.'s home made limo cello brought a very satisfying tasting
experience to a close. The limo cello is not on the drinks menu,
but if you see Jerry Jr. and you enjoy limo cello, ask to try
his version.
There is a full lunch menu and also a
children's menu. Both Jerry's are strong believers in healthy
eating and they are members of Mather Hospital's new Heart
Healthy program. Appetizers run from $6.50 to $10.50: Main
courses that include vegetable and a salad are from $14.95 to
$25.95. This is a very friendly, informal restaurant that opens
seven days a week from 11.30 a.m. till last orders and stays
open until 4 a.m for Karaoke on Friday and Saturday nights.
As Jerry continues to hand over the reins to
his son, based on our experience the restaurant will be in very
sure hands hopefully for the next fifteen years and more.
-Roy Bradbrook
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